Saturday, May 30, 2015

Window Maintenance

Window frames, sills and sashes should be monitored because the interior condition and hardware of windows change over time. Frame materials can include plastic, aluminum, steel, wood, plastic-clad wood, and metal-clad (steel or aluminum) wood. Window types include:
  • double-hung; 
  • single-hung; 
  • casement; 
  • horizontal sliding; 
  • projected out or awning; 
  • projected in; and 
  • fixed.

In addition to these, there are jalousies, which are glass louvers on an aluminum or steel frame.

At older sashes, the glazing compound or putty around the glass panels should be monitored carefully, since this is a vulnerable part of the window and its repair is time-consuming. Check the panels in steel or aluminum sashes for signs of deterioration, such as hardened sealant. Check metal sashes for weep holes that have been blocked by paint, sealant or dirt. Weep holes are usually easy to clean. Storm windows and doors should be monitored for operation, weathertightness, overall condition, and fit.

Weatherstripping: 


Window and door weatherstripping is generally one of three types:
  • metal; 
  • foam plastic; or 
  • plastic stripping.

Each type should have a good fit. Check the metal for dents, bends and straightness. Check foam plastic for resiliency, and plastic stripping for brittleness and cracks. Make sure the weatherstripping is securely held in place.

Shutters & Awnings:

Periodically check the shutters’ operation and observe their condition and fit. Shutters close to the ground can be examined from the ground. Shutters out of reach from the ground should be examined from inside the house.

Monitor the condition of your awnings. The attachment to the exterior wall can become loose. Oftentimes, an attachment device in the mortar joint of a brick wall can be easily pulled or slid outward. Some windows and glazed exterior doors have awnings over them for decoration, sun control, and protection from the weather.

Egress Windows for Fire Safety

Basements and every sleeping room should have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening that opens directly onto a public street, public alley, yard or court. This standard is required because many deaths and injuries happen when occupants are asleep at the time of a house fire and the normal means of escape (through doors) are typically blocked.

The sill height of the emergency escape and rescue opening should not be more than 44 inches above the floor. If the window has a sill height below ground level, a window well should be provided. The window well should have a horizontal area of at least 9 square feet, with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (with the exception of a ladder encroachment into the required dimension). If an emergency escape window is located under a porch or deck, the porch or deck should allow the window to be fully opened and the escape path should be at least 3 feet high.


You can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is. Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.


From Monthly Newsletter  - Copyright © 2015 InterNACHI, All rights reserved.

Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Snow Bird Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - online prices - references available.

We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  
Ottawa Snow Birds Home Watch or  Ottawa Snow Birds Home Check or Ottawa Snow Bird Pet Sitting,  

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

The Attic

An attic is an unconditioned space between the roof and the ceiling or walls of the building’s inhabited rooms. In a small house with a pitched roof, the attic is usually partially or fully accessible. In a house with a low-slope roof, it may be inaccessible or virtually nonexistent.



Roof Leaks: 

Look for signs of and monitor water leakage from the roof above and try to locate the source. This may be difficult to do beneath built-up roofs or loosely laid and mechanically fastened single-ply roofs, since water may travel horizontally between layers of roofing materials. 

Attic Ventilation:  

Signs of inadequate ventilation are rusting nails (in roof sheathing, soffits, and drywall ceilings), wet or rotted roof sheathing, and excessive heat buildup. Adequate attic ventilation can be measured by calculating the ratio of the free area of all vents to the floor area. The free area of vents is defined as their clear, open area. If a vent has an insect screen, its free area is reduced by half. The free vent area-to-floor area ratio should be 1 to 150. If the calculated ratio is less, consider adding ventilation, especially if you’re in a hot and humid climate.

If the attic also contains an occupied space, check that the ventilation from the unconditioned, unoccupied areas at the eaves is continuous to the gable or ridge vents. Also check that the free area of eave vents is approximately equal to the free area of ridge or gable vents. If ventilation appears to be inadequate and additional vents cannot be added economically, consider adding mechanical ventilation. 




Attic ventilation

Vents and Birds: 

Make sure ventilation openings are clear of dirt and debris. At larger ventilation openings on a building’s exterior and where louvered grilles are used, such as at gables, check for the presence of 1-½-inch-square 14- or 16-gauge aluminum mesh bird screen. If there is none or it is in poor condition, consider having new bird screen installed. 


Plumbing Stacks and Exhaust Ducts: 

All plumbing stacks should continue through the roof and should not terminate in the attic. The stack pipes should not be loose, broken or damaged. Exhaust ducts should not be kinked, broken or damaged.  They should not terminate in the attic but should continue through the roof, gable or wall.




From Monthly Newsletter  - Copyright © 2015 InterNACHI, All rights reserved.

Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Snow Bird Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - online prices - references available.

We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  
Ottawa Snow Birds Home Watch or  Ottawa Snow Birds Home Check or Ottawa Snow Bird Pet Sitting,  

Wednesday, May 13, 2015

Clean Your Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) or AIr Exchanger

Your heat recovery ventilator (HRV) can help make keep your house a clean, healthy living environment, while keeping fuel bills down. But your HRV can't do all this without your help in keeping it well maintained.



Step 1: Turn off your HRV 

First, turn off your HRV and unplug it.


Image Copyright CMHC

Step 2: Clean or replace air filters

Dirty or clogged filters can lower ventilation efficiency. Try to clean your filters at least every two months. Filters in most new HRVs can be easily removed, cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, then washed with mild soap and water before being replaced. Older units have replaceable filters. If your HRV is easily accessible, this is a five-minute job. 




Step 3: Check outdoor intake and exhaust hoods

Remove leaves, waste paper or other obstructions that may be blocking the outside vents of your HRV. Without this vital airflow, your HRV won’t function properly. During winter, clear any snow or frost buildup blocking outside vents. 



Step 4: Inspect the condensate drain

Check to see if your HRV has a condensate drain—a pipe or plastic tube coming out of the bottom. If it does, slowly pour about two litres of warm, clean water in each drain pan inside the HRV to make sure it is flowing freely. If there’s a backup, clean the drain. 



Step 5: Clean the heat exchange core (large white plastic filter)

Check your HRV owner’s manual for instructions on cleaning the heat exchange core. Vacuuming the core and washing it with soap and water will reduce dust that can build up inside the core. 

Step 6: Clean grilles and inspect the ductwork.

Once a year, check the ductwork leading to and from your HRV. Remove and inspect the grilles covering the duct ends, then vacuum inside the ducts. If a more thorough cleaning is required, call your service technician. 



Step 7: Service the fans (most can be unplugged and then slide out)

Remove the dirt that has been accumulated on the blades by gently brushing them. Most new HRVs are designed to run continuously without lubrication, but older models require a few drops of proper motor lubricating oil in a designated oil intake. Check your manual for complete instructions.



Image Copyright Carson Dunlop




Additional Resources

http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/en/co/grho/grho_003.cfm


How to Clean Your HRV

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CPJYp6WEWg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HYmRd6WpcU

IB42 Home Inspections and Kanata Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - see our online prices. 

We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  
Kanata Home Watch or  Kanata Home Check or Kanata Pet Sitting,  see:

Friday, May 8, 2015

Clean Your Humidifier

A malfunctioning or leaking humidifier can destroy your furnace and your health. Humidifier leaks are a common but avoidable problem with humidifiers. specially if their units haven’t had proper preventive maintenance. There are many sources of leaks inside these units, such as parts that are overdue for cleaning or replacement.

Flow Through Style Furnace Humidifier
Drum style humidifiers are notorious for leaking on the heat exchanger, the most critical component of your furnace. This leaking causes rusting and, eventually, a hole in the heat exchanger. This can allow the furnace exhaust gases, including carbon monoxide, into your home’s air supply -- not a good thing.

Common causes of whole house humidifier leaks (for drum style):

Here’s a handy list of the main culprits that cause humidifier leaks and their solutions. This information doesn't apply to humidifiers with pumps or water reservoir systems or flow through.

1. High water pressure – Pressure should remain below 125 psi to avoid leaks. Check the pressure and install a pressure reducer if needed.

2. Drain line backup – If the drain line doesn't run on a slope to the drain, it can become air locked, causing a water backup in the drain line. Any dips or hills in the drain line’s path must be eliminated to prevent the problem. Clear out drain line backups by flushing with water. The water pressure should clear the blockage from the line. To prevent this issue entirely, consider having the drain line replaced annually.

3. Evaporator panel or scale control insert – Water panel evaporators can become clogged with scale and debris over time. This may in turn block the scale control insert and drain opening, causing a leak. The scale control insert should be cleaned and the water panel may need to be replaced.

4. Solenoid valve – Check that water flowing through the valve is in the proper direction, following with the directional arrow printed on the valve. Debris may become stuck between the valve’s plunger and its seat on the solenoid. This can keep it propped partially open, causing a valve leak. If you’re planning to investigate the problem on your own, first shut off the water supply at the saddle valve and turn off electric power. Next, run water, using light pressure, through the solenoid and/or blow air through it to clear it out. If the valve seat has been damaged, a new one may need to be installed.

None of these problems have to happen. With regularly scheduled preventive maintenance provided by your local HVAC technician, leaks like these can be prevented. During your annual tune-up visits, your contractor will clean the humidifier to maintain its performance and note any impending problems.

You can also do some preventative maintenance yourself by cleaning your humidifier.  This can be done at the end or beginning and midpoint of the heating season.  This is a flow through filter that needs to be cleaned;

                        
                       
Also, stagnant water in an older style  humidifier is a breeding ground for bacteria, which can cause illnesses such as Legionnaires’ disease.

Humidifiers are prone to leakage because they can foul with mineral deposits. This can cause the supply valve to stick open or clog up the drum, pads, or mesh. The drain line (if there is one) can also become plugged.

Follow the manufacturer's cleaning instructions. The goal is to dissolve the mineral deposits or replace parts that are beyond cleaning. Replacement parts are easy to find.   Next, you want to ensure that the humidifier responds to the humidistat (the dial where you set the humidity level). When there is a call for humidity, the drum should start to rotate or the valve should open.

Humidistat
TIPS   
1. Most humidifiers have a bypass duct damper. Be sure that the damper is open during the heating season and closed during the cooling season.

Winter / Summer damper control
2. Follow the water supply line from the humidifier back to the point where it connects to the plumbing. The connection is often made using a low-quality saddle valve, which is prone to leakage. This is the valve you turn on at the beginning of the heating season and shut off at the end of the heating season. Make sure it's in good operating condition and doesn't leak.


Or on newer plastic plumbing, the shutoff may look like this:


If you are getting condensation on your windows, your humidifier controls are set too high. You can’t see it, but you’re creating the same condensation inside your exterior walls. That’s not good!


Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - see our online prices. 

We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  
Ottawa Home Watch or  Ottawa Home Check or Ottawa Pet Sitting,  see:

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Check Your Deck for Rot

Spring and Summer is the time of  year to inspect your deck fasteners and specifically areas of wood rot. Catching wood rot, before the damage is terminal, can save thousands of dollars and potential injuries.
             
Rot occurs where wood stays wet. Wood rots if it cannot dry out between rainfalls. Therefore, check the places where water gets trapped, and remove as many of these traps as you can. They include:

a. Gaps in the decking where sand, leaves, and pine needles collect. Remove the debris regularly.

b. Areas under flowerpots and planter boxes; these areas are particularly vulnerable because they get wet more often when plants are watered.

c. Countersunk nails or screws that create depressions which hold water. The water gets into the end grain of the wood where the fibers are broken by the fasteners.

d. The point where a cantilevered deck penetrates a wall.

e. The areas where joist rest on the beam under the deck.

Image Copyright Carson Dunlop
Also avoid wood to soil contact to avoid wood from rotting.  See article:

Avoid creating traps for water when repairing or rebuilding decks. For example, it is better to use a single 4 by 8 than to use two 2 by 8 nailed together. Water will inevitably find its way in between the two 2 by 8 and cause rot.

Another common place for moisture penetration and rot is at the end grain of deck boards where they are butted tightly together. It is better to leave a ½-inch gap between the ends of boards.

TIPS
Deck boards should be installed with the crown facing up. If the board warps slightly, the water will drain off the board. Boards installed with the crown facing down, cup and collect water.

http://www.warlinepainting.ca/snapblog/are-your-deck-boards-installed-right-side-up.asp

http://diy.skiltools.com/building-materials/how-to-inspect-boards-for-lumber-crown


Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Snow Bird Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - online prices - references available.

We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  
Ottawa Snow Birds Home Watch or  Ottawa Snow Birds Home Check or Ottawa Snow Bird Pet Sitting,  see:

                           
                             

Monday, May 4, 2015

It's almost Summer - Time to Turn on the Power to Your Air Conditioner

Summer is almost upon us. It’s time to take the cover off the dust off and fire up the Air Conditioner (A/C). But before you flick the little switch on the thermostat from heat to cool, here’s a little warning. 
                       
You decide when to turn on your A/C based on the outside humidity and temperatures, but at least 24 hours before using your air conditioner.  

Usually the electrical power is turned off to the A/C in the fall or when you know you will no longer being using the A/C.  This is done because there is a heater built into the outdoor compressor unit  of your air conditioner. It is pointless and wasteful to leave it powered all winter. You also risk burning out the heating element. It is costly to replace and critical for starting up your air conditioner next summer.

The compressor is the heart of your A/C that is designed to pump gas. There is a heater built into the compressor called a crankcase heater.  The crankcase heater is normally on all the time, even when the unit is not running, though temperature sensors and set points may turn it off when not needed. A crankcase heater's sole purpose is to prevent refrigerant migration and mixing with crankcase oil when the unit is off, and to prevent condensation of refrigerant in the crankcase of a compressor. The crankcase heater keeps refrigerant at a temperature higher than the coldest part of the system.

Over the winter, the refrigerant in your system will combine with the oil in your compressor. The heater separates the refrigerant from the oil and boils the refrigerant into a gas -- something the compressor can is designed to do. You can seriously damage a compressor if you ask it to compress a liquid. By turning the power on 24 hours in advance, you give the heater time to work. 


Compressors Image Copyright Carson Dunlop
Turn on the power to your air conditioner at the breaker at the main electrical panel (should be clearly labelled) or outside shut-off  which is close the to the outdoor unit 24 hours before using your air conditioner.  Make sure it is turned on as well at both places (inside electrical and outside shut-off)

A/C breaker clearly labelled at the electrical panel
TIPS  
1. You run the risk of damaging your A/C by operating it before you have it serviced. It's always a good idea to arrange for service before the first heat wave.  

2. Never use your air conditioner when the outside temperature is below 65°F (18°C). You can damage the compressor.  
                       
3. Your humidifier duct damper on the furnace is most likely in the open position from the winter months. Now is the time to move it to the closed position. This makes your A/Cr run more efficiently. 


Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - see our online prices.  We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or  Ottawa Home Watch or Ottawa Home Check or Ottawa Pet Sitting,  see:

Sunday, May 3, 2015

Avoid Wood to Soil Contact

If a tree falls in the forest ... does it rot?  Of course. This is Mother Nature's way of recycling old trees into nutrients for new trees. 


When the wood in your house touches the soil, the same thing happens. Wood that is in direct contact or in close proximity to the ground is more susceptible to rot and/or insect damage.
Wood will rot when it is exposed to moisture and in contact with soil or other material which prevents the wood from drying out. The only (partial) exception is ground contact, pressure-treated lumber. However, even such "treated" lumber is usually not fully impregnated with wood preservatives and subject to some wood rot damage.

It is advisable to maintain a separation of six inches or more between all wood and any soil, gardening material, or firewood.  Improve ventilation and drainage where possible to create an environment less prone to rot or infestation. 

All foundation or deck posts should sit on concrete piers, and the perimeter foundation or skirting should be constructed out of concrete or pressure-treated lumber. All wood that has previously been in contact with soil, but which remains in relatively good condition, should be cleaned, allowed to dry out, and treated with a wood preservative. 

Wood that has deteriorated due to soil-to-wood contact must be replaced, and future soil contact prevented. 

Some of the more common areas to watch:

Window Wells
Increased soil height adjacent to the house may partially bury basement windows. Under these circumstances, or with any basement window which is at or near ground level, a window well should be provided. It will prevent water penetration through the window, prevent rotting of window
frames, it is advisable to avoid wood/soil contact and keep the window cleaner.


Wood, Stucco Siding and Brick 
Wood/Soil Wood/soil contact should be avoided, as it promotes rot and provides an
ideal environment for wood-boring insects. Wood and Stucco siding should be at least (8)
eight inches above the soil and at least (6) six inches for masonry.



Wood Steps
Direct wood/soil contact should be avoided to minimize damage by rot, carpenter ants or termites
Plywood should never be used for steps as the layers of glue tend to trap moisture, creating rot and de-lamination of the plywood.


Wood Columns
The most common problems with wood porch columns are the result of simple deterioration.
Wood columns rot and are subjected to insect attack. Direct wood/soil contact should be avoided.


Wood Beams
Beams should be strong enough to transport the roof, floor or deck loads to a wall or column. They are typically wood, but can also be steel. Beams should be adequately supported and arranged to minimize rot and wood/soil contact.

Deck and Porch Skirting
Skirting is used around the perimeter of a deck or porch to prevent vermin from getting under the structure. The skirting should allow for ventilation and direct wood/soil contact should be avoided to minimize damage by rot or insects.


Log Cabins
Direct wood/soil contact should be avoided to minimize damage by rot or insects.

Fences
Direct wood/soil contact should be avoided to minimize damage by rot or insects.


Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Ottawa Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - see our online prices.  We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or 

Kanata Home Watch or Kanata Home Check or Kanata House Sitting, see:

Friday, May 1, 2015

Rust in the Condensate Drain Line from the Furnace

                               
Nothing can destroy your furnace faster than a leaking / rusting condensate tray. 
                                 
When an air conditioning system or a heat pump is cooling, household air passing across the cold coil in the plenum causes condensation to form. This condensation is collected in a condensate tray . A condensate line carries the water from the tray to a floor drain, sink or pump.

Condensate line connected to plenum of furnace
If the water cannot flow by gravity, a condensate pump is installed to pump the water to a suitable location. The condensate should not discharge directly into a plumbing vent or stack, nor onto a roof.

While the condensate tray is not visible (in the plenum), there is sometimes evidence of a malfunction. Water stains can sometimes be detected on the top of the furnace indicating a cracked or broken condensate tray, a condensate tray which is not level, or rust in the drain line, or a condensate tray which has a plugged outlet  and is overflowing.

Condensate line draining to floor drain and contains rust


Rust in condensate line indicates a problem














It is essential that the condensate tray function properly or the excess water will drip onto the heat exchanger (the most critical component of the furnace). Water dripping on a heat exchanger can rust it prematurely, requiring furnace replacement.

The condensate line which takes the condensation from the condensate tray to a drain can be leaking, missing, broken, or plugged. On systems requiring condensate pumps, it is important that the pump be inspected monthly. While the pumps are relatively inexpensive and are easily replaced, they are prone to failure.


The image above illustrates what happens when a condensate tray leaks, risking costly damage to the furnace heat exchanger below. 

Some problems with the condensate collection tray inside the plenum (air handler) can be:
  • the drain in the pan itself is clogged with debris - you'll need to turn off and look inside the air handler
  • the drain pan is corroded through and leaks - it will need patching or replacement;
  • the drain pan or the whole air handler is not properly leveled - it may be sloped away from the condensate pan drain opening so that condensate collects in and runs over the edge of the pan in another direction.

How to Clean or Clear an Air Conditioning Condensate Drain Line

There are plenty of articles on the topic:




Condensate Line Maintenance Tip: If the condensate line becomes plugged system condensate overflow will spill onto and rust and possibly seriously damage the furnace heat exchanger. During system operation you should periodically confirm that condensate is being discharged properly through the pipe.


Inspected by 42 Home Inspections and Home Watch. Call Barry at 613 799 3698 to make an appointment today - see our online prices.  We specialize in the Ottawa area.  http://www.ib42.ca or http://www.inspectedby42.com or 

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